TronXY Setup

TronXY 3D Printer Setup
This page is a setup guide for the TronXY 3D printer series. Most makes and models are included here and each specific model with its special intricacies is described as follows.The differences for these printers is largely build volume and construction. The subtle changes for each one will be listed when they matter. Otherwise the setup is nearly the same.

Assembly Tips
Assemble your machine Square. Make sure to have a 90deg carpenters angle or an angle measuring tool ( if you dont have any, a triangle ruler with 90deg will do the trick, not very well but it's fine) and make sure every corner in your build ( X5SA especially ) is 90° exactly. What can help with Squaring the machine is those nice 2028 or 2020 corner brackets, which are recommended as a first upgrade anyways. If the machine is not square, it will ruin print results. Instructions on how to assemble the machines come with the machine itself. If you still have issues, you can watch Youtube tutorials.

Belt tension Tip
Belt tension can be quite Tricky, especially on the X5SA Models. Once you got a rough good belt tension, make sure the first thing you print Those nice Belt clips for easy, ziptie-less installation of the belts.

First print
Make sure to do a first print with the stock firmware. Why exactly I will explain later. Print something like a 3DBenchy and make sure everything moves and works. In case something does not work, try troubleshooting it( connections, motors, etc ). If something is broken, contact customer support ( in case purchased on aliexpress ) or return it ( in case of amazon purchase ). The customer support will send you a replacement part.

After this first print is done, we get on to installing Marlin instead of the stock firmware, which sucks.

Installing Marlin Firmware
FOR ANYONE AFTER 2021: Use this guide in combination to this one to install marlin, this one alone won't work. Use the following guide to get your marlin update.cbd and the other guide to do the setup for your mainboard

The newest Tronxy printers ( X5SA-600-2021 ) already have the marlin firmware, we are going to be talking about the XY, D and X5SA series. A contributor of the community called rhapsodyv has made awesome pre-made marlin configurations, and a youtuber called Jeff's 3D Corner has made an awesome, beginner-friendly Video on how to install Marlin.

Klipper on TronXY Boards (and others)
'''This is for advanced users only! If this is your first 3D printer, this is not recommended. Proceed with caution.'''

Klipper is excellent for utilizing your printer to it's limits. In this guide, I will go over the basics of how to install Klipper on your machine!

What you will need:


 * A USB Cable that can connect to your printer
 * A raspberry pi with preferably a cooling fan + heatsinks (case is handy too)
 * A power brick for the pi
 * A USB power cable (depends on your pi, usually USB-C)
 * An accelerometer (ADXL345 is the only supported) if you want to utilize input shaper.

If you have gathered these items, I would invite you to look into the entire guide here. Good luck and happy printing!

Once this is done, your TronXY printer is extremely capable. We will now move on on how to level your bed.

Bed Leveling & Automatic Bed Leveling

 * 1) Go to Movement -> Bed Leveling -> Level Corners, level your Corners by adjusting the screws on each corner, and balancing out the middle screw(if present) by putting a flat object( like a 90deg carpenters angle ) on the bed by sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle. It should barely rub the paper, but not press it down any amount. You can also try leveling by eye if you're skilled enough
 * 2) Go to Movement -> Bed Leveling -> Level Bed and turn "Bed Leveling" to ON. This will probe and level your bed if it has imperfections.
 * 3) Go to Configuration -> Store Settings
 * 4) Slice a Bed Leveling Helper and turn the speed on the printer down to 10-40%. Now, while printing go to Tune -> Probe Z offset. Now, adjust up or down until your Nozzle is printing just right, and is not too high or too low. Here's a useful Infographic
 * 5) Go to Configuration -> Store settngs once again

You have successfully leveled and configured your bed! You're ready to print, experiment and Calibrate now.

TronXY P802E (or Zonestar, CStar), P802MA, X3
The TronXY P802E is an old, outdated and basic 3D printer without automatic leveling functionality. The Machine is not sold officially anymore, we are still keeping this part of the page because of archival reasons.

Once you are sure that it is built correctly. You can begin the bed levelling process. Now the fun begins. If you have a Z-Limit Switch on your printer. Follow the next steps. If not, skip to part B.
 * 1) First prepare your printbed. This is done by either laying down strips of painters tape (green or blue, green tends to be less sticky though), using kapton tape or in some cases, various people have purchased a piece of glass the size of their printbed and used that.
 * 2) Install and run the print command sender of your choice.
 * 3) How to choose one can be found here.
 * 4) Open your gcode sender and connect to your printer via USB
 * 5) Setup for Cura, Repetier, and Simplify3D can be found here.
 * 6) The terminal with jog controls should be available to you. A quick way to test your connection is to move the bed back and forth.
 * 7) Now type the command G28 or press the home (appears like a house with either xyz, or no lettering on it) button, your printer will now find the home for all 3 axes.

Part A: Hardware Calibration
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 * 1) Move your print head so it is above the printbed by using the +Z buttons. (+10mm should be enough)
 * 2) Move the head with the controls to the center of the bed. (approximate center is good enough)
 * 3) Now place a sheet of paper under the head on the printbed this will serve as a reference.
 * 4) Now carefully lower the Z axis using the controls 1mm at a time until it is close enough to the paper to start using 0.1 increments.
 * 5) Keep lowering until you either trigger the Z-limit switch or the paper is unable to move under the head. (BE VERY CAREFUL, move in smaller and smaller increments as you get closer to the bed. You don't want to destroy the nozzle.)
 * 6) If you trigger the Z-limit switch (makes a distinct click) and you are above the bed and the paper is not touching the head (should still move freely but some friction should be felt), this means it is too high. Tighten the switch so that it sits lower than before. Hit the Z Home button and repeat the process until the paper and head are barely touching after the home button is pressed.
 * 7) If you are touching the bed and the paper is unable to move, and the Z-limit switch is still not triggered, then your switch is too low. Raise the switch higher and repeat the process.
 * 8) If you can move the paper around but still feel friction of the nozzle then the switch is set correctly.

Part B: Software Calibration
Si ha logrado exitosamente la parte A, omita la parte B.

Some printers may not come with Z-Limit switches, or they may not behave as expected. This is not a problem as it can be overwritten in software.

The process for doing so is described as follows. Congrats! The hardest part is now over. Now you can move on to easier calibration procedures.
 * 1) Move your print head so it is above the printbed by using the +Z buttons. (+10mm should be enough)
 * 2) Move the head with the controls to the center of the bed. (approximate center is good enough)
 * 3) Now place a sheet of paper under the printbed this will serve as a reference.
 * 4) Now carefully lower the Z axis using the controls 1mm at a time until it is close enough to the paper to start using 0.1 increments.
 * 5) Keep lowering until you either trigger the Z-limit switch or the paper is unable to move under the head. (BE VERY CAREFUL, move in smaller and smaller increments as you get closer to the bed. You don't want to destroy the nozzle.)
 * 6) Now since your Z-Limit switch is behaving incorrectly or is not there you have to be extraordinarily careful here.
 * 7) Enter the command M851, the printer should reply with a Z value.
 * 8) This is where your printer thinks it is.
 * 9) You can observe that it is higher or lower than that.
 * 10) Lower your Z until it reaches the 0 value or it reaches the paper. Whichever comes first.
 * 11) Now look at the display to see what value the printer believes it's at.
 * 12) Take this value that is displayed, this is your Z-offset. Enter it into the Slicer of your choice when creating prints. From now on all your print heights will be offset by this height.

Thanks erikkallen for his wonderful blog instructions on how to set this up. If this helped you, make sure to send him a thank you.

Bed Leveling
After making sure your print head is offset the correct distance from center, the next most important thing is to ensure bed level. Without doing this you'll get sideways prints or the biggest problem, poor bed adhesion. These almost always come back to one problem that is easily solved. Bed Level. Follow the steps below and you'll be printing A+ level prints in no time.

Manual
Most TronXY printers don't have the auto level option and as such has to be done manually.
 * 1) With the manual controls on and still connected to your printer, move the print head to a corner of your print bed leaving 10mm on each edge.
 * 2) Turn the bed level knob in that corner to either loosen or tighten the height so that again, a piece of paper can slide between the head and bed with a little bit of friction.
 * 3) Repeat this for each corner on the bed.
 * 4) Repeat the entire 4 corners twice to be super sure.
 * 5) Done! Easy right? Your bed level should now be level with the head. If you want to be super fine tuning, you can repeat this process but for a smaller diameter on the print bed.

Auto-Level Sensor
Same procedure as the printers above.